I took a long walking holiday across the Scottish Highlands with one of my best friends. It was the first extended expedition i'd ever taken by foot, and I was graciously put back into my place by the rain, the fog, and other aspects of relentlessly normal Scottish weather.
As we approached the Island of Skye on the ferry, we were bouyed with excitement, trepidation, and wore on our windbattered faces the slapped grins of two men decided upon the fact that they know exactly, no really, exactly what they're going to do once they step foot on land. We approached the island with dreadnought slowness, eyeing up the black, stuffed mass of clouds above the land slowly melting into view. Through some chattery conversation, my friend was reminded of a memory gifted to him by his father. His parents were travelling around the world, and they had trekked up to the lip of a shallow volcano. In this volcano were thousands of nesting flamingos. The sight of so many flamingos nestled amongst this large crater must have been breathtaking. The sky, the pink bodies shuffling, the occasional upward swing of an unfurling wing, the expansive orange, rocky terrain, and a sparkly white sediment crusting the lip of the volcano, must have been an impressive sight. Taking all this in, my friend's father noted in full chested confidence that this was, in fact, evaporated salt, as the flamingos, in fact, eat algae that grows in very salty water. In fact, it is this same algae that gives the flamingo its famous vivacious pink hue. To prove this point, he reaches down to the nearest white patch, drags an index finger through the mud, and plops it in his mouth. No, he says turning to his wife. That's flamingo shit.
The week long journey would be a test for me, as I found out, and we would have many converstaions, fact sharing moments, and orienteering predicaments that most of the time veered towards flamingo shit. We turned out to be busking most of it, or at least, I definitely was, as my friend was an experienced walker who could settle himself into his pace in a matter of seconds with a meditative blankness that kept him flowing over the terrain step after step. I plodded behind him, thumbs tucked under the straps of my pack, gleefully oggling the lumps, bumps, lochs and vistas of the Highlands. The peaks were arduous, but rewarding, and the troughs, both physical and mental, forced my overactive mind to calm down, and subsist on the tactility of navigating rough terrain by foot.
The hardest moment came when I had to make a decision to carry on, or turn back. We had trekked up and down across fourteen kilometres a day, with very high inclines, following a trail of our own making across a ridgeline. On the third day, we awoke from our tents we had pitched on a grassy peak overlooking the whole of Skye to an otherworldy morning fog. There were sparsely scattered lumps of sheep blending into the middle distance, mistaking themselves for rocks. Occasionally they revealed themselves to be alive, gauntly raising their heads up from chewing the grass to throw us a completely apathetic stare, which was in stark contrast to the pangs of our aching legs and the breathless wonder that snuck up on us when we occasionally paused from our trudging to look back through the fog and and attempt to figure out which way we had come from.
We carried on, and trekked through the thought that the rain would not let up, and down, and up, and down, and up ridges with drastically steep inclines, until we were completely sodden. My boots had become so wet that, rather amusingly, the detergent in my socks had decided to fizzle, and so very bubbly white foam was erupting from between my laces. As we sat down for lunch in a riverine valley, looking up at the next enormous hill in front of us, I had a moment of clarity that settled on me. I looked down into my lukewarm ramen with mashed potato powder, and back up at the next hill. No. Something sighed away from me like a distance gong echoing from the back of my mind. The previous hill had wrecked me. I had no energy left to go on, and no desire to walk another two days.
"I can't do this." I mumbled to my friend. Im not sure if he heard me at first, but he has, and we both enter the new reality. We debated for a very long five minutes over whether he was to continue, how I would get back alone, and both of us ended up rationalising ways in which I could, which eventually, I discovered to my own suprise, were batted away by my blunt frustration. It was my birthday the next day, too, I realised.
"It's alright" he said after a pause "I'll come back with you." We hugged. I needed it, frustrated in myself, and embarressed to be the one to fall back. But I had found my limit. We packed up our stoves, hoisted our bags back on, and jointly committed murder through a 180 degree turn. The journey back we got lost, almost died on a scree slope, found our old camping spot with disasterously impressive ease, got down to the road, and hitched back to Portree.The next day, we dried off and recovered, and then we set off again, on a different route, which is another story.
I am thinking about this on the train back to London. In the end, my friend decided to stay on the island for another couple of days with some serious, long legged walkers we had met in the pub on the last day. My friend had more in him, I suppose. But I, now, sit hurtling smooth along rails, rocking side to side occasionally in my seat, with a G&T slopping about gently on my tray table. But the cup is nestled in its little cup holder cavity and won't spill. A little rain is crossing the window which I'm looking through to whatever Glen is thundering by. Possibly, the Smiths could be playing, but that might be a bit much. I take a sip and I think to myself that there's not much at all that really matters to me apart from experiencing places and people.
I thought about the moment that I had announced to my friend that I could go no further. I thought about hearing myself say those words. But, there's a little dance between hearing and listening, I decide. When you are given the opportunity to find the tempo of experience slowing down to a complete, courageous pace, therein lies the truth of the matter before you. No flamingo shit, just a descending moment where you are thrown upon an impasse, a steep edge in front of you, a wall, or another seemingly impossible challenge. Sometimes, if you are lucky, you can find yourself hearing that small impulse, which pushes back, quietly, and slowly against the overwhelming weight of the moment, which feels like a rapture of unmeasured distances, and then you find that those walls arent as strong as you thought, and that they are built up in haste. I had spoken quietly. Real mountains and hills are built up over achingly long expanses of time, and with this reckoning there before you is lain out more terrain to traverse, more land to map out and understand.
Seeing that expand before you, you see things once again for the first time, and I think to myself that I should want many more experiences like this, to learn of that moment and speak again and again, until I am familiar with the feeling, and to remember that some experiences predate my life, like a child learning of the dawn chorus alone.
I remember being in a classroom after school is over, learning how to read, being singled out after a good, day long session casting my attention through the window. And now, instead of being outside in the world, im still sat in that happily tired, musty room, being prodded towards answering some questions that, for all intents and purposes would go to show that I am a good student. But here, at the end of the day, I actually have no idea how to give the answer. The expectation is on me to balance out my window watching with the fitting ideal of a good student, and that I might, one day, teach someone else the words on the page in front of me. But, instead, I think now, perhaps I have just become very learned at busking it, I have learned by gleaning the answer, the word on the page, from looking up at the teacher leaning over me, by watching the word form itself as a shape on their lips, as the word inches closer to being inanely obvious, just like whatever image of success they are seeing as itinerant inside me, and the teacher is now barely barricading their need to get me learned behind a wall of expectation and excitement, just that a little lap of the first letter gently passing into the space between us. "F.. Fla...?" And in that moment between us I just say it.
But I just read the lips, I've just said the right word, and I've got the praise, but I never really learned out how to know what it was, or where it's supposed to come from.
So I think to myself, now, on this train back, that learning who you, and how far you've got to go, happens in a slow moment, and that is when you start to get it for yourself.
As we approached the Island of Skye on the ferry, we were bouyed with excitement, trepidation, and wore on our windbattered faces the slapped grins of two men decided upon the fact that they know exactly, no really, exactly what they're going to do once they step foot on land. We approached the island with dreadnought slowness, eyeing up the black, stuffed mass of clouds above the land slowly melting into view. Through some chattery conversation, my friend was reminded of a memory gifted to him by his father. His parents were travelling around the world, and they had trekked up to the lip of a shallow volcano. In this volcano were thousands of nesting flamingos. The sight of so many flamingos nestled amongst this large crater must have been breathtaking. The sky, the pink bodies shuffling, the occasional upward swing of an unfurling wing, the expansive orange, rocky terrain, and a sparkly white sediment crusting the lip of the volcano, must have been an impressive sight. Taking all this in, my friend's father noted in full chested confidence that this was, in fact, evaporated salt, as the flamingos, in fact, eat algae that grows in very salty water. In fact, it is this same algae that gives the flamingo its famous vivacious pink hue. To prove this point, he reaches down to the nearest white patch, drags an index finger through the mud, and plops it in his mouth. No, he says turning to his wife. That's flamingo shit.
The week long journey would be a test for me, as I found out, and we would have many converstaions, fact sharing moments, and orienteering predicaments that most of the time veered towards flamingo shit. We turned out to be busking most of it, or at least, I definitely was, as my friend was an experienced walker who could settle himself into his pace in a matter of seconds with a meditative blankness that kept him flowing over the terrain step after step. I plodded behind him, thumbs tucked under the straps of my pack, gleefully oggling the lumps, bumps, lochs and vistas of the Highlands. The peaks were arduous, but rewarding, and the troughs, both physical and mental, forced my overactive mind to calm down, and subsist on the tactility of navigating rough terrain by foot.
The hardest moment came when I had to make a decision to carry on, or turn back. We had trekked up and down across fourteen kilometres a day, with very high inclines, following a trail of our own making across a ridgeline. On the third day, we awoke from our tents we had pitched on a grassy peak overlooking the whole of Skye to an otherworldy morning fog. There were sparsely scattered lumps of sheep blending into the middle distance, mistaking themselves for rocks. Occasionally they revealed themselves to be alive, gauntly raising their heads up from chewing the grass to throw us a completely apathetic stare, which was in stark contrast to the pangs of our aching legs and the breathless wonder that snuck up on us when we occasionally paused from our trudging to look back through the fog and and attempt to figure out which way we had come from.
We carried on, and trekked through the thought that the rain would not let up, and down, and up, and down, and up ridges with drastically steep inclines, until we were completely sodden. My boots had become so wet that, rather amusingly, the detergent in my socks had decided to fizzle, and so very bubbly white foam was erupting from between my laces. As we sat down for lunch in a riverine valley, looking up at the next enormous hill in front of us, I had a moment of clarity that settled on me. I looked down into my lukewarm ramen with mashed potato powder, and back up at the next hill. No. Something sighed away from me like a distance gong echoing from the back of my mind. The previous hill had wrecked me. I had no energy left to go on, and no desire to walk another two days.
"I can't do this." I mumbled to my friend. Im not sure if he heard me at first, but he has, and we both enter the new reality. We debated for a very long five minutes over whether he was to continue, how I would get back alone, and both of us ended up rationalising ways in which I could, which eventually, I discovered to my own suprise, were batted away by my blunt frustration. It was my birthday the next day, too, I realised.
"It's alright" he said after a pause "I'll come back with you." We hugged. I needed it, frustrated in myself, and embarressed to be the one to fall back. But I had found my limit. We packed up our stoves, hoisted our bags back on, and jointly committed murder through a 180 degree turn. The journey back we got lost, almost died on a scree slope, found our old camping spot with disasterously impressive ease, got down to the road, and hitched back to Portree.The next day, we dried off and recovered, and then we set off again, on a different route, which is another story.
I am thinking about this on the train back to London. In the end, my friend decided to stay on the island for another couple of days with some serious, long legged walkers we had met in the pub on the last day. My friend had more in him, I suppose. But I, now, sit hurtling smooth along rails, rocking side to side occasionally in my seat, with a G&T slopping about gently on my tray table. But the cup is nestled in its little cup holder cavity and won't spill. A little rain is crossing the window which I'm looking through to whatever Glen is thundering by. Possibly, the Smiths could be playing, but that might be a bit much. I take a sip and I think to myself that there's not much at all that really matters to me apart from experiencing places and people.
I thought about the moment that I had announced to my friend that I could go no further. I thought about hearing myself say those words. But, there's a little dance between hearing and listening, I decide. When you are given the opportunity to find the tempo of experience slowing down to a complete, courageous pace, therein lies the truth of the matter before you. No flamingo shit, just a descending moment where you are thrown upon an impasse, a steep edge in front of you, a wall, or another seemingly impossible challenge. Sometimes, if you are lucky, you can find yourself hearing that small impulse, which pushes back, quietly, and slowly against the overwhelming weight of the moment, which feels like a rapture of unmeasured distances, and then you find that those walls arent as strong as you thought, and that they are built up in haste. I had spoken quietly. Real mountains and hills are built up over achingly long expanses of time, and with this reckoning there before you is lain out more terrain to traverse, more land to map out and understand.
Seeing that expand before you, you see things once again for the first time, and I think to myself that I should want many more experiences like this, to learn of that moment and speak again and again, until I am familiar with the feeling, and to remember that some experiences predate my life, like a child learning of the dawn chorus alone.
I remember being in a classroom after school is over, learning how to read, being singled out after a good, day long session casting my attention through the window. And now, instead of being outside in the world, im still sat in that happily tired, musty room, being prodded towards answering some questions that, for all intents and purposes would go to show that I am a good student. But here, at the end of the day, I actually have no idea how to give the answer. The expectation is on me to balance out my window watching with the fitting ideal of a good student, and that I might, one day, teach someone else the words on the page in front of me. But, instead, I think now, perhaps I have just become very learned at busking it, I have learned by gleaning the answer, the word on the page, from looking up at the teacher leaning over me, by watching the word form itself as a shape on their lips, as the word inches closer to being inanely obvious, just like whatever image of success they are seeing as itinerant inside me, and the teacher is now barely barricading their need to get me learned behind a wall of expectation and excitement, just that a little lap of the first letter gently passing into the space between us. "F.. Fla...?" And in that moment between us I just say it.
But I just read the lips, I've just said the right word, and I've got the praise, but I never really learned out how to know what it was, or where it's supposed to come from.
So I think to myself, now, on this train back, that learning who you, and how far you've got to go, happens in a slow moment, and that is when you start to get it for yourself.